That bargain PS3 at the op shop or on Marketplace can be a brilliant addition to the games room - or a console that needs more attention than a final boss. This PlayStation 3 model guide breaks down the three main PS3 families, what their model codes mean, and which one makes sense for replaying classics, building a collection or giving the gift of games.
Sony sold the PlayStation 3 for more than a decade, so there is no single best version for every player. The original fat console has serious collector appeal and a few special features. The Slim is the dependable all-rounder. The Super Slim is usually the sensible choice when you simply want to play discs without filling the entertainment unit.
The three PlayStation 3 models at a glance
The quickest way to identify a PS3 is its shape. The original model is large, curved and glossy, with a chrome PlayStation 3 logo. The Slim is smaller with a matte, sculpted top and a slot-loading disc drive. The Super Slim has a lighter plastic body and a manual sliding lid over the disc bay.
All three can play PS3 games, download compatible content, use Bluetooth controllers and run PS1 discs. They also use HDMI for the easiest modern TV setup, while the AV Multi Out supports older PlayStation video cables. The big differences are backwards compatibility, reliability history, storage options and physical design.
Original PS3 fat models - the collector pick
The first-generation PS3 is the one many players remember with the most excitement. It feels premium, it has plenty of USB ports on early units, and some models can play PlayStation 2 games. That last feature is why certain fat PS3s remain especially sought after.
The catch is that not every fat PS3 is PS2 compatible. In Australia, the PAL 60GB CECHC02 is the model most commonly discussed. It supports a large number of PS2 titles through software emulation, but compatibility is not perfect. Earlier Japanese and US models, such as CECHA and CECHB units, used more original PS2 hardware and generally offer stronger PS2 compatibility, though they are imported consoles with their own region and power considerations.
Later fat PS3 revisions dropped PS2 support altogether. If a seller says a console plays PS2 games, ask for the full CECH code from the rear label and ask them to demonstrate it with a disc. A chrome trim, four USB ports or a 60GB label can be useful clues, but the model number is what matters.
Fat PS3 consoles also run hotter and are more prone to age-related faults than later versions. A loud fan is not automatically a deal-breaker, especially during a demanding game, but repeated overheating, random shutdowns, graphical glitches or a console that will not read discs deserve caution. These machines can be repaired, but a cheap console is not always cheap once parts and labour are involved.
PS3 Slim - the best all-round choice
For most Australian players, the PS3 Slim is the sweet spot. Introduced in 2009, Slim consoles are quieter, smaller and generally more efficient than original fat models. They remain slot-loading, which feels familiar if you are used to later PlayStation systems, and they are much easier to fit into a busy TV cabinet.
Look for CECH-2000, CECH-2100, CECH-2500 or CECH-3000 series codes. There are small differences between revisions, but a clean, well-kept Slim with a healthy disc drive is usually a better buy than chasing a specific number. Earlier Slims are often preferred by enthusiasts for particular firmware projects, while later models can be a little more power-efficient. If you just want to play The Last of Us, LittleBigPlanet, Gran Turismo, Ratchet & Clank or a stack of bargain-bin favourites, condition matters more than minor revision details.
No standard Slim model plays PS2 discs. It will still play PS1 games, which makes it a handy way to keep a few original PlayStation favourites in rotation without setting up another console.
PS3 Super Slim - practical and surprisingly tough
The Super Slim arrived late in the PS3's life, with CECH-4000 series model codes. It is the lightest and often the cheapest version to buy second-hand. Its most obvious difference is the top-loading disc compartment: you slide the lid open, place the disc inside and close it manually.
Some collectors are less keen on the Super Slim's lighter build and sliding lid. Fair enough - it does not have the same premium feel as an early glossy PS3. But for a family setup, a casual retro shelf or a player who wants a straightforward disc machine, it is a very sensible option. There is no slot-loading mechanism to worry about, and the design can make it easier to see whether a disc has been left inside.
Check that the lid slides smoothly and closes securely. A loose cover, damaged rails or a console that only reads discs after several attempts may point to wear that needs attention.
How to read PS3 model numbers
The CECH code is printed on a label at the rear or underside of the console. It is the best way to identify what you are actually buying, especially when listings simply say "PS3 console".
As a quick guide, CECHA through to CECHQ generally refer to fat models, CECH-20xx through CECH-30xx are Slim models, and CECH-40xx models are Super Slims. The letters and final digits can identify regional and hardware revisions, so photograph the label before buying if the exact model matters to you.
For Australian consoles, also check that the unit is suited to our 220-240V power supply and comes with the right mains lead. Imported PS3 consoles can work perfectly well, but it is worth confirming the voltage label rather than assuming.
Backwards compatibility and region details
Every PS3 model plays original PlayStation discs, making the system a handy two-generation console for PS1 and PS3 collections. PS2 compatibility is the exception, not the rule. Treat it as a bonus available on select early fat systems, not a feature of the whole PS3 range.
Most physical PS3 games are region-free, so imported PS3 games will usually boot on an Australian console. Films are different: DVD and Blu-ray region coding can still apply. Downloadable content can also need to match the region of the game and the account used to buy it. If you collect imported editions, special releases or games with expansions, keep the game and account regions in mind.
What to check before buying a used PS3
A PS3 is old enough that its condition matters as much as its model. Before handing over your cash, test the basics properly rather than just checking whether the console turns on.
- Insert a game disc and let it load to the title screen. If possible, also test a Blu-ray or DVD, as a weak laser may behave differently across disc types.
- Connect a controller and test the sticks, triggers, face buttons and charging port. Genuine DualShock 3 controllers are increasingly hard to find, and many cheap copies look convincing at first glance.
- Listen to the fan after 10 to 15 minutes of gameplay. Some fan noise is normal; a console that immediately sounds like it is preparing for take-off needs a closer look.
- Check the HDMI output, Wi-Fi connection and USB ports. A working console with a damaged HDMI port can become an annoying extra expense.
- Ask whether the hard drive has been changed, whether the console has been opened for repairs and whether the seller has reset it. Honest repair history is useful information, not necessarily a reason to walk away.
Storage, controllers and setup extras
PS3 storage fills faster than many people expect. Game installs, patches and downloaded titles can quickly swallow a small original drive. Fat and Slim models use an accessible 2.5-inch SATA drive bay, while Super Slim consoles also support internal drive upgrades with the correct hardware. A larger drive is worthwhile if you are building a digital library, but make sure you back up saves where possible before changing anything.
For accessories, start with the unglamorous essentials: a genuine or reliable compatible controller, a charging cable, an HDMI cable and enough free storage. If you are connecting to an older television, confirm which AV input it has before buying cables. Component and composite setups can work, but HDMI is the easy option for most modern screens.
The PS3 is also a great console for local multiplayer. A second controller turns games such as LittleBigPlanet, LEGO titles, fighting games and racing favourites into an instant lounge-room session rather than a solo nostalgia trip.
Which PS3 should you buy?
Choose a fat PS3 if you are a collector, love the original design or specifically want one of the early PS2-compatible models. Buy with care, budget for possible maintenance and verify the exact CECH code first.
Choose a Slim if you want the best balance of price, reliability, looks and day-to-day use. It is the easy recommendation for most people rebuilding a PS3 library.
Choose a Super Slim if you want a compact, affordable console mainly for PS3 and PS1 discs, and you do not mind the manual disc lid. It is often the no-fuss option for a second room, a younger player's first retro console or a gift bundle.
The best PS3 is the one that suits the games you actually want to play and has been cared for properly. Keep an eye on condition, test the disc drive and controller, and do not miss out on a clean console with the right cables and a few classics ready for the shelf.